Pogradec, Albania

Description: Perfectly situated between two mountain ranges on the Southwestern edge of Lake Ohrid, Pogradec has a population of approximately 46,000 people. Lake Ohrid itself straddles the international border between North Macedonia and Albania. Pogradec and the surrounding area have been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the natural and cultural heritage of the Ohrid region.

Dating back over 2000 years as an Illyrian settlement, the original site was a castle on a hill on the Western edge of town. Nothing remains of the old castle that one can readily tell, we’ve been told, but there is a white pillar easily seen from the waterfront in the present town. The city has been the site of numerous battles since the beginning of time, and changed hands multiple times as late as WWII.

Renowned for its natural beauty, the town was the summertime host to the Communist dictator Enver Hoxha and his cronies. They literally walled off the Eastern portion of the city along the waterfront for his and their vacation villas. Another story is that the wonderful park/strip that runs along the entire waterfront through Pogradec used to have private homes, but they were razed to the ground so the elites could enjoy it for themselves. Only one building from that era remains standing today.

Along the waterfront, which extends well over a mile, is a wonderful promenade, or pedestrian walkway. This area, and the area a block or two further into the city away from the lake, are very pedestrian and disabled friendly.

Though the city has an old rail line extending westward, it’s in extremely bad condition, and has not been functional in several years. The only sources of public transportation throughout all of Albania are taxis and private busses. With that being said, the local bus station in Pogradec is an actual site dedicated to mass transit. It is relatively new and way more controlled than the “organized chaos” of bus stations in Vlorë and Tirana

Descriptive Word: Blossoming - Whether you are looking at the wonderful flowers about town, or seeing the residents stroll each night during the xhiro, the freshness of life is blossoming. Pogradec was a truly Albanian town. This is where Albanian's themselves vacation in the summer. Yes, there are expats, but they embrace the Albanian lifestyle here in Pogradec unlike the expatriate gentrification that has eroded Vlorë and Sarandë.

Summary of Thoughts: Perhaps it was because we made friends in this town, or perhaps it was the quiet nature of the lakeside retreat, but Pogradec was our favorite town during our Albanian journey. Swimming in the lake was refreshing, but marvelous. There were lounge chairs to rent as well as plenty of public beach space. Families with children had plenty of activities by the lake too. Shopping for fresh produce in the summer was plentiful. Even though most vendors spoke Shqip, we pantomimed and used our language apps because the Albanians want to please you with a sale of their wares.

Number of Days we visited: 29

Analyzed Costs: How much did we spend? We had the stomach bug which floating about town during this location, which kept some of our costs lower, but Pogradec was, by far, the cheapest location for us despite that hiccup. In the medical category, we purchased some hydration powder and Greg got three months of prescription medications.