The Pogradec Time Warp

America has become a hectic, fast-paced, violent, ego-centric society. What if I told you there’s a place you could visit that makes you feel like you’ve stepped back in time? Would you go there? Would you step through Alice’s looking glass and go back to something that feels more like a 1960s small town where everyone is welcome?

In 1960, the town of Pogradec in eastern Albania was under communist rule. It was actually the vacation destination for the fascist dictator and “the party”. But, like other towns in Albania in the 1960’s life was oppressive, physically dangerous, and emotionally taxing.

Today, Pogradec is open to all Albanians. They are freer and happier and very proud of their town. Every night during the summer at 19:00 the main street is closed to automobile traffic and taken over by the people. This xhiro gives the people the opportunity to dress up and socialize with their neighbors. Children run and play unsupervised; yet watched by everyone. Being in Pogradec is like stepping back in time. Look at this!

Bicycles and Motor scooters: The older teens and twenty-somethings are finding their niche in the community. While some are delivering food on motor scooters, others are buzzing through town for their own social obligations. Helmets are not required, and young children often stand on the footwell of motor scooters.

Community: No matter where we looked in Pogradec, the community was interacting. People engaged with locals and tourists. The promenade was a pleasure to walk day and night. One restaurant owner frequently has his buddies in for food and drinks, then the stringed instruments come off the wall and they begin to sing in Shqiperi both upbeat and woeful songs.

Street vendors: When the xhiro began, so did the vendors. Fresh corn on the cob and popped corn permeate the air while games and rides hummed in the background.

Widows talk: With tradition, Albanian women are strong and determined. When widowed by their husbands, they continue to wear modest black dresses when going out in public. When the xhiro begins each night, they cluster on benches or lawn chairs and fill their social bucket in a way that was never allowed during communist times.

Kids dance and families play: Many of the restaurants and bars in Pogradec have live music throughout the week. Pure joy filled our hearts as we watched the littles dance unabashedly. There was absolute innocence in the interactions between adults and children. No fear of “the party” or government oversight.

Pogradec captured our heart in 2025 and again in 2026. Coming back for a second summer felt like coming home, but like no home we’ve ever known. This town is raw, safe, untainted, and unpretentious. The locals are real, kind, helpful, and humble. We pray in our hearts that it continues in this way. We will be back!

Remember Swings: From the giant swing on the beach to the normal swings in the grass, kids seem to enjoy the pastime and tourists love the photo ops on the beach.

GENTLE-men: By day we saw men tending to their chores or playing games in the park. As the sun set, they too joined the xhiro. Any time of day you could see the gentlemen donned in slacks, wool jackets, and sweater vests. We grinned as we watched them ride elegantly through town.

Kids play: Imagine a place where children know how to play without a screen. Yes, we saw some phones on occasion, but we watched children swing, play with animals, play with rocks, swim, play with balls, ride bikes and generally use their own imagination without screens. As a teacher, I haven’t seen that in a long time.